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From the team at BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine
Tue, 03 Dec 2024 13:13:42 +0000
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/reviews/gardening-kit/which-type-of-compost-bin-is-best/
Tue, 03 Dec 2024 12:35:13 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=13628
Compost is nature’s gift to your garden, a rich blend of nutrients that not only nourishes your plants but serves as an ideal fertiliser, organic mulch, and soil improver. Making your own compost is both a rewarding and sustainable practice that allows you to recycle garden and kitchen waste to provide your plants with the essential elements they crave.Simply put your garden waste and some kitchen waste into a compost bin and it will break down over a year or so to reveal fresh, home-made compost. If you’re looking for a compost bin for your garden they come in a range of shapes, sizes, and prices.
Whether you have a large country garden or a small outdoor space in the city, there are compost bins to suit all tastes and requirements. To help you choose between the hundreds available on the market we’ve tested several to provide a broad range of compost bins to inspire your next purchase.
We’ve also got some useful information regarding the different materials that compost bins can be made of, how to choose the best compost bin and what to put in your compost bin.
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If you’re new to composting or would like more practical tips and information, see our guides on how to make compost and how to make a composting trench. We also have a handy trouble-shooting video on common problems with composting. For tested tools to help with the process, check out our guides to the best spades, electric garden shredders, border forks, gloves, wheelbarrows and best cordless mowers.
Best compost bins to buy at a glance:
- Best budget compost bin: Blackwall Green Compost Converter
- Best large compost bin: Modular Compost Bin
- Best compost bin for versatility: Green Johanna 330 Litre Hot Composter
- Best compost bin for speed: Hotbin Mk. 2 Composter
Our expertise
We tested the different types of compost bins, using them in the garden for a year to help you find the right one for your garden. Each bin has a detailed list of pros and cons for clarity and has been rated according to design, ease of use, compost quality and value for money. Every bin in our round up below has scored a minimum of four out of five stars, so you can buy with confidence.
Jump to:
- Best compost bins in 2024
- Best of the rest
- What materials are compost bins made of?
- How to choose the best compost bin
- What to put in a compost bin
- How we tested
In every review, we award the outstanding products our coveted Best Buy award. To see these and the others we recommend, browse our pick of the best compost bins below:
The best compost bins in 2024
Blackwall Green Compost Converter
RRP: £42.99
Our rating: 4.25/5
Available from Even Greener (£49.99)
Pros
- Low price
- Black bin totally recycled
- Optional base plate to site on hard surface
- Long warranty
Cons
- Thin, non-ventilated construction
- Slowest to compost
- Only one access hatch
The Blackwall Compost Converter is a BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Best Buy for the best budget model. Made of recycled plastic, it consists of a one-piece cone-shaped body with a snug-fitting removable lid and single hatch. It’s very quick to set up – just stand it on the soil and you’re good to go. It’s a great option for those who want a simple and affordable compost bin. However, because of its thin sides, it was one of the slowest composters on test, so if you want results quickly you may want one of the other models featured here.
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Read the full Blackwall Compost Converter review.
Buy Blackwall Compost Converter at Even Greener
Suttons Modular Wooden Compost Bin
RRP: £199.99
Our rating: 4.5/5
Available from Suttons, Amazon (£179.99), and organiccatalogue.com (£199.99)
Pros
- Simple, tool-free assembly
- Insulated cover sits directly in compost
- Planks slide out for easy filling/ access
- Accessed in any side
- Extends with additional three-sided modules
Cons
- Cover lets in some rain
This traditional wooden compost bin has a huge 573 litre capacity, earning it a BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Best Buy award for the best large compost bin. Made from sustainably sourced Scandinavian softwood, the planks easily slot into upright grooves on the corner posts and the bin can be accessed from every side. Thanks to its plastic cover, it produces the highest internal temperature of any of the wooden bins on test, guaranteeing fantastic compost. However, you should note that this cover let in a little rain.
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Read the full Suttons Modular Wooden Compost Bin review.
Buy the Suttons Modular Wooden Compost Bin at Amazon and organiccatalogue.com
Green Johanna 330 Litre Hot Composter
RRP: £144.99
Our rating: 4.5/5
Pros
- Compost food and garden waste
- Made from 100% recycled plastic
- No need to pre-mix waste
- Good capacity for price
Cons
- Can’t harvest compost when the winter jacket is on
Awarded a BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Best Buy for the most versatile compost bin, the Green Johanna 330-litre Hot Composter has a good capacity and works effectively for all types of food and garden waste. It does not need pre-mixing and is made from 100 per cent-recycled plastic.
Read the full Green Johanna 330 Litre Hot Composter review
Buy Green Johanna 330 Litre Hot Composter at Van Meuwen, Suttons, Amazon and Great Green Systems
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Hotbin Mk. 2 Composter
RRP: £255
Our rating: 4.25/5
Pros
- Quickly composts food and garden waste
- Self-contained and comes part assembled
- Achieved highest temperature
Cons
- Waste needs pre-mixing
- Made from vigin materials
- Cam straps make compost access awkward
If you want quick compost, look no further – the Hotbin Mk. 2 Composter is a BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Best Buy winner for being the fastest to compost. A good option for small spaces, it has a built-in carbon filter to absorb smells, a temperature gauge on the lid and a tank in the base to collect the liquid produced during composting. That said, all waste needs mixing before going into this composter, and it can be a little tricky to access the compost.
Read the full Hotbin Mk. 2 Composter review
Buy Hotbin Mk. 2 Composter at Hotbin, Thompson & Morgan, Even Greener, and Dobies
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The best of the rest
Although some models didn’t quite achieve a Best Buy award, they still have various features that make them worth recommending. Browse our pick of the best of the rest on test.
Hozelock EasyMix 2-in-1 composter
RRP: £134.99
Our rating: 4/5
Pros
- Smart and compact, made from 90% recycleable plastic
- Takes both food and garden waste
- Easy to fill and empty
- Tank to collect/dispense liquid
- Makes compost quickly if regularly turned
Cons
- Lots of assembly
- Heavy to turn when fuller
- Needs regular attention for fast composting
- Household would need more than one composter
- High price
This compost bin is a ‘tumbler’ type, designed to enable the frequent turning and mixing of waste material, and produces compost much faster than a traditional compost bin due to the high level of aeration. It’s smart and well made, from 90% recycled plastic, and its vermin-proof design enables the composting of both food and garden waste. Thanks to its compact size of 60 x 50 x 65cm, it’s also easy to site almost anywhere. Both adding and emptying waste is straightforward, as the hatch is large and opens and locks smoothly with a chunky knob. There are also plenty of grip points to rotate the drum with relative ease, although once the tumbler is around two-thirds full, this becomes quite hard to do due to the weight.
One of its best features is that when the compost is ready, you simply roll the drum off the base to a convenient emptying place in the garden. The nutrient-rich liquid that drains during the composting process is also collected in a tank which clips onto a garden hose, allowing this useful plant tonic to be easily dispensed when watering.
However, while this bin is clearly solidly made and the product of a carefully thought-out design, there are drawbacks. The cost is high in comparison to the amount of waste it can process and the subsequent amount of compost produced. Another, is that it needs ‘tending’ to tumble the waste: not in itself an arduous task, but to produce compost rapidly this does need regular attention, ideally daily. The air vents do allow small flies to enter, and during warm weather, these fly out in clouds when the hatch is first opened, so opening it and standing back for a minute is advisable. Any garden waste such as stems and woody material aren’t suitable to use in this compost bin, if the aim is to produce compost in a period of weeks. However, the chief drawback is that this can’t be the only composting solution because the waste needs to be left for a period of a month or so without adding fresh material. This therefore necessitate either having two of these composters, or an alternative composting solution. It comes with a three-year warranty.
Buy the Hozelock EasyMix 2-in-1 composter from Keen Gardener, B & Q, Wickes and Amazon
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Lacewing Easy-Load Wooden Compost Bin
RRP: £84.99
Our rating: 4/5
Available from Primrose
Pros
- Good size capacity for price
- Removable front makes it easy to add waste and harvest compost
- Long warranty
Cons
- Drill required for assembly
- No lid or cover
- Waste composted slower at front and top
The simple construction of this wooden compost bin allows for a whopping 718 litres of volume. It’s made from slats to allow air circulation around the compost and the front ones are removable, making filling up the bin much easier and allowing lots of room to get at the compost when it’s ready. However, we found that these wide gaps meant that it composts relatively slowly. Made from pressure treated pine, the slats have a smooth, planed finish and are guaranteed against rot for 15 years.
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Buy Lacewing Easy-Load Wooden Compost Bin from Primrose
Harrod Horticultural Slot and Slide Wooden Compost Bin
RRP: from £199
Our rating: 4/5
Available from Harrod Horticultural
Pros
- Very sturdy construction
- Planks slide out for easy filling/access
- Accessed on any side
- Extends with additional three-sided modules
Cons
- Lots of assembly and requires a powered screwdriver
- Screws for lid rails too short
Producing some of the best and fastest compost on test, this composter is for serious gardeners. It’s designed to be modular, so you can add multiple units for extra capacity, and is very sturdy as it’s made of sustainably sourced wood with aluminium fittings. The planks slide out smoothly so it’s easy to add waste and remove compost. However, the lid isn’t included, and this composter needs a lot of assembly with power tools, so if DIY isn’t your bag you may want to look elsewhere.
Buy the Harrod Horticultural Slot and Slide Wooden Compost Bin from Harrod Horticultural
Garantia 400 Litre Thermo-King Composter
RRP: £94.99
Our rating: 3.75/5
Pros
- Insulated and vented sides
- Two-part hinged lid for easy filling
- Made from 100% recycled plastic
- Optional base plate so can be sited on a hard surface
Cons
- Multiple lugs make assembly and hatch replacing tricky
- Connectors don’t feel very durable
This plastic compost bin has a great 400-litre capacity. On test, its foamed plastic walls and carefully designed ventilation system helped it handle this volume quickly, producing excellent compost. It’s made from 100% recycled materials and includes a wide two-part hinged hatch for easy filling. However, it’s a little tricky to assemble.
Buy the 400 Litre Thermo-King Composter at Robert Dyas, Crocus and Garden Tech
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Thermo Compost Bin Komp 420
RRP: £208.88
Our rating: 3.75/5
Available from Amazon and Garden Delights
Pros
- Insulated and vented sides
- Hinged lid, easy to fill
- Compost accessed on any side
- 100% recycled plastic
Cons
- Assembly hard to align single-handed
- Comparatively high price
With a robust, sectional design and made from thick recycled plastic, this bin is easy to access thanks to a wide hinged lid. Insulated and vented sides help it compost quickly and it’s available in a range of sizes, from 250L to 700L (pictured). However, we found that it’s fiddly to assemble without help, and it comes at a relatively high price.
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Buy the Thermo Compost Bin Komp 420 on Amazon and Garden Delights
Aerobin 200L Composter
RRP: £191.99
Our rating: 3.75/5
Pros
- Compost food and garden waste
- Produced compost in reasonable time
- Finished compost easy to access
Cons
- Waste needs pre-mixing for high temp
- Leachate tank hard to access
- Made from virgin materials
Our tester liked this this high-tech compost bin, which thanks to its internal ‘lung’ to circulate air and a rigid recycled plastic outer shell produces compost quickly. It’s easy to access, but the bin needs a regular supply of ready-mixed waste to maintain temperature, as well as a drainage hose, which isn’t supplied. The leachate tank is also tricky to access.
Buy the Aerobin 200L Composter from Amazon and Water Butts Direct
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Forest Garden Beehive Composter 250L
RRP: £189.99
Our rating: 3.5/5
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Pros
- Durable with effective lid
- FSC wood
- Long anti-rot warranty
- Looks good
Cons
- Lengthy to build
- Needs a prop to hold up lid
- Hard to harvest from hatch
- Slow to make compost
This attractive wooden, beehive-style compost bin makes a stylish feature in the garden. Made from FSC pressure treated softwood it arrives flat packed and took our tester a lengthy two hours to slot together and build. It has a hinged lid and a hatch at the base for accessing the compost, and tools including a drill and screwdriver are needed to attach both of these. The bin holds 250 litres of compost, although this is more like 230 litres when you allow for a gap at the top for air circulation, and it’s easy to add material, as long as you’re strong enough to lift the lid with one hand. Our tester fashioned their own prop to hold the heavy lid up while they worked and it’s a shame that given the price, one isn’t included with the bin as it makes a massive difference to ease of use. It’s also awkward to harvest compost from the hatch as material needs regularly turning and so you end up turning and using the compost at the top.
The quality of compost was as you would expect with a cold composting system of this size and it took 18 months before we had a good crumbly mix. The bin is well aerated and the secure lid prevents compost getting soggy from the rain. The bin is also open at the bottom so it’s ideal for placing directly on the soil but this does mean that rodents can burrow up into the compost. The bin feels very durable once built and it comes with a 15-year anti-rot warranty, which as the wood is in direct contact with the damp ground is reassuring. The build quality and looks of this bin and are its best features but it’s not for gardeners who lack strength or don’t want to spend time putting it together.
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What materials are compost bins made of?
Compost bins come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and are made using different materials:
- Plastic compost bins: Ideal for a small space, the plastic sides and lid retain moisture and heat to encourage rapid decomposition, as well as blocking out light to stop weeds from growing. This type of bin should ideally be placed on grass or earth.
- Wooden compost bins: Typically 1x1m but the biggest wooden bins can produce hundreds of litres of compost. They’re often modular, so you can fit several together and cycle compost throughout the year to ensure a steady supply. Usually open to the elements, you can also increase their efficiency with a wooden lid or plastic cover.
- Hot compost bins: Insulated with a close-fitting lid, these are designed to allow decomposition at a much higher temperature and therefore higher speed than other composters (30-90 days, compared to around six months). They also result in a finer compost. Roughly the size of a wheelie bin, they need to stand on a hard surface.
- Wormery bins: These work similarly to compost bins, but are slightly different. They’re designed for the small-scale composting of kitchen waste, and use tiger worms to break down material instead of decay. These specialised worms mix and break down the compost quickly and produce a nutrient-rich liquid for use as a fertiliser. Compost worms can also be added to larger bins. However, not all waste is suitable for a wormery, so you’ll still need a compost bin too.
For more info, check out our expert tests of the best wormeries or read our guide on how to set up a wormery.
You can also make your own compost bin using wooden pallets or corrugated iron. Enclosing the sides will retain heat, which speeds up the rotting process – the larger the pile, the more heat. The ideal minimum size is 1m x 1m and, if possible, make more than one, so it’s easier to turn the compost. For more help, take a look at our advice on how to build a compost bin and our guides to the best multi-tools, best cordless drills and best hammers, should you attempt to build your own.
How to choose the best compost bin
When choosing a compost bin, consider the size of your plot, the design of your garden and the amount of compost you’d like to produce.
Where will it go? Location is likely to influence your choice of bin. A site in full or part shade is best for successful composting. Most bins need to be placed on soil to achieve good drainage and boost microbial action, but the Aerobin and Hotbin must be on a level hard surface. If you want a cheaper compost bin but only have hard surfaces, look for a model with the option of a base plate to create good drainage and aeration.
Which design is best? If you only want or have room for a single bin, choose a design where finished compost can be easily harvested from the bottom so you can keep filling from the top. This applies to all the plastic composters in our trial.
How fast is compost produced compared to the work involved? Composting in traditional (non-insulated) bins takes 6-12 months on a ‘fill and forget’ approach. You can speed up the process by emptying out, turning and refilling to incorporate air and up the temperature, but obviously this takes time and effort. Easiest is two bins so one rots while the other fills. A lid or cover will help retain heat and moisture, and keep out excess rainfall, so cover open bins with a piece of plastic or old carpet. Material and thickness also influence compost speed by retaining more heat. Wood is a good insulator while thin plastic has the poorest qualities. Highly insulated or ‘hot’ composters are most expensive but do have the potential to make compost in just a few weeks as the composting process is faster at higher temperatures. This type of bin suits a ‘little and often’ mode of filling: note the Aerobin and Hotbin require a weekly supply of pre-mixed waste to work at their most effective.
What do you get for the money? Consider the length of warranty, particularly with wooden bins and the eco-credentials of the bin, which can vary – some are made from FSC wood or totally from 100% recycled plastic while others contain none.
What to put in a compost bin
Most garden material is compost-able, including grass clippings, annual weeds, leaves of perennial ones (not roots, they’ll keep growing) and soft prunings. This ‘green’ material, as it’s often called, would become airless and soggy on its own, so for effective composting, mix with around the same amount by volume of ‘browns’ like chopped-up woody stems, brown cardboard and non-shiny paper. Raw vegetable scraps, teabags, coffee grounds and cut flowers can go in any type of bin, but cooked food, meat and fish must only go in an enclosed vermin-proof design.
How we tested compost bins
The bins were assembled and sited according to instructions, and then tested over a year. They were given the required type of waste and similar bins were given the same mix of waste at the same time. They were assessed throughout the year using the following criteria with equal marks attributed to each:
- Design & setup. Looked at ease and clarity of instructions, siting restrictions, and how well the design worked and extra features.
- Ease of use. Assessed the simplicity of adding waste and then removing compost from the bin.
- Compost quality & speed. Focussed on the speed the waste rotted down (including checking the temperature using a compost thermometer) and the quality of the finished compost.
- Value for money & eco credentials. Considered the value relative to the above, including warranty and RRP and as well as eco credentials such as type of material and, if plastic, whether virgin or recycled.
For more information in our testing process, take a look at how we review.
This Review roundup was last updated in December 2024. We apologise if anything has changed in price or availability.
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/diy/how-to-make-fat-cakes-for-birds/
Sun, 01 Dec 2024 07:29:24 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=191649
As well as feasting on our garden berries, seeds and other natural food such as earthworms, caterpillars and beetles, birds seem to love energy-rich fat balls, which give them a calorie boost that may help them get through cold winter days and nights. You can buy fat balls in the shops but they’re easy to make at home. Simply mix kitchen scraps such as cheese, cake crumbs and dry porridge oats with melted lard or beef suet, and set in the fridge overnight.
Which birds benefit from fat balls?
While the jury is out on whether birds actually benefit from fat balls, they are popular with blue tits, great tits and long-tailed tits, house sparrows, blackbirds, robins, woodpeckers, nuthatches and blackcaps.
Alternative ingredients
Try rehydrated raisins, currants and sultanas, small pieces of apple or pear, or grated cheese. Crushed peanuts can also be added.
Foods to avoid
Avoid using turkey fat, which doesn’t set like suet and lard, and can coat birds’ feathers, preventing them from being able to fly. It can also spread disease. You should also refrain from using raisins and sultanas if you have a dog, as they are poisonous to them. Bear in mind that mealworms are harmful to hedgehogs, so only add these if don’t have hedgehogs visiting your garden.
Our fat balls for birds shopping list
You might already have what you need to get started on making your fat balls. If you don’t, we’ve done the hard work for you with our handy shopping list.
How to make fat balls for birds
You will need:
- Bowl
- Lard or beef suet
- Saucepan
- Spoon
- String or twine
- Old yoghurt pots
- Unsalted peanuts
- Currants
- Sultanas
- Oats
- Breadcrumbs
- Cake crumbs
- Grated cheese
Total time: 12 hours Including overnight refrigeration time
Step 1: mix the ingredients
The best ratio for this fat ball recipe is one part fat to two parts dry mixture. Mix all your dry ingredients together in a bowl.
Step 2: add the fat
Melt some lard or suet in a pan and add the dry mix. Stir well until the fat has all been absorbed by the dry mixture, and everything sticks together.
Step 3: make the fat balls
Make a hole in the bottom of a yoghurt pot and thread through a length of twine or string, then pack the pot with your warm fat mixture, to make fat balls.
Step 4: remove the yoghurt pots
Place your fat balls in the fridge overnight to set, then cut through the pot and and peel it away. Tie a big knot at one end of the twine to secure the ball.
Step 5: hang the fat balls
Hang the fat ball in a tree or shrub and wait for the birds to come and feast.
Kate Bradbury says
Keep a store of fat cakes in your freezer, taking just one or two out at a time on cold winter days. Never put them out in summer – in very hot weather the fat may melt and could smear onto birds’ feathers, preventing them from being able to fly.
Where to place fat balls for birds
You can place fat balls anywhere you place bird food, such as from a specially designed hanging feeder to the bird table. If you have made them with string you can hang them from branches of shrubs and trees.
How to place fat balls for birds
If you added string or twine when making your fat balls, you can hang them from a branch of a tree or shrub. If you made them without string then you can add fat balls to a bespoke hanging feeder, or simply place them on your bird feeding table.
Frequently asked questions
Do fat balls for birds attract rats?
Fat balls for birds can attract rats, yes. Rats are grain eaters and are therefore attracted to bird food, but they are also generalists and may be attracted to the fatty mixture. If you want to help the birds but avoid attracting rats, focus on growing plants for birds that will help them to feed naturally.
Are fat balls healthy for birds?
As reported by the British Trust for Ornithology, recent studies have found that productivity in great tits and blue tits reduced when fed fat balls over winter, but increased in great-spotted woodpeckers. This raises concerns that fat balls might not be good for some birds, but more research is needed. What’s certain is that growing berrying trees and shrubs, leaving seedheads on plants and growing caterpillar foodplants such as long grass, dandelions and nettles, is very good for birds as it helps them to feed naturally all year round. The more natural food we grow in our gardens, the more birds will be able to feed themselves.
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/how-to-decorate-your-table-for-christmas/
Fri, 29 Nov 2024 16:35:27 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=209767
The table is such an important piece of Christmas for me and acts as the focus of so many wonderful memories each year. Festive breakfasts, games, midnight tipples and, of course, the main event: Christmas dinner. Therefore, it needs to look spectacular.
Here are the steps to create a beautiful and simple-to-make garland that will look stunning on your festive table.
You’ll need
- Large bunches of foliage and dried and fresh flowers. I’ve used eucalyptus, holly, Pittosporum, bay, rosemary, pine cones and wax flowers.
- Twine
Step by step
1. Gather a beautiful selection of foliage, dried flowers and berries. Try to find as many different varieties and colour tones as you can.
2. Cut a very long length of twine that will form the base of your garland. Next create lovely thick bunches using a variety of your foliage.
3. Lay each bunch on your twine starting at one end, and tie on very tightly where the stems meet the twine. Repeat along laying each bunch over the previous one until you reach your desired length.
4. Finish off with pine cones or a decoration of your choice. Simply tie these on in a natural staggered way throughout your garland.
Find more festive ideas for your home:
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/premium/show-and-tell/wildlife-watch-sparrowhawk/
Fri, 29 Nov 2024 15:29:13 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=214460
The sparrowhawk is one of our smallest birds of prey. The male is around the size of blackbird and has blue-grey back and wing feathers with orange-brown stripes on the chest and belly. The female is slightly larger than a mistle thrush and is more brown in colour, with brown stripes on the chest and belly.
Both sexes hunt small birds such as sparrows, tits and finches, although the larger female may also take thrushes, starlings and pigeons. Small mammals are also taken. They’re well adapted to hunting birds in confined spaces like woodland, so do well in gardens, where they will easily take a bird from a feeder or tree branch.
In spring, sparrowhawks build a nest of twigs high up in a tree in woodland, parks and larger gardens. The female lays up to five eggs and incubates them for around a month. Both parents feed the chicks the remains of birds and small mammals.
How to help sparrowhawks
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Some people don’t like seeing sparrowhawks prey on ‘their’ garden birds, but rest assured this is nature, and sparrowhawks are a sign of a healthy bird environment. To ‘help’ them specifically, make sure you have plenty of trees and shrubs for them and other birds to take shelter. If you have a large garden, tall trees, particularly conifers, can encourage them to nest.
If you want to even out the stakes between sparrowhawks and their prey, you could stop feeding garden birds, which would mean sparrowhawks have less of a sitting target. Some suggest elevated feeding can deter them rather than feeding on the ground, but removing feeders altogether will reduce incidences of small birds gathering in one place, which makes it easy for predators to attack.
More wildlife inspiration:
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/solve-problems/erigeron-canadensis/
Thu, 28 Nov 2024 11:11:11 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=214011
What is horseweed?
Erigeron canadensis, also known as horseweed or Canadian fleabane, is an annual to biennial wildflower native to North and Central America, that is now considered a weed. It naturalises in waste ground and colonises uncultivated soil. It can grow up to between 50cm and 1.5m tall and produces tiny white flowers with yellow centres between June and September.
How to identify horseweed
Horseweed has tiny white flowers, bristly stems and narrow, hairy leaves. It has a carrot-like scent. Seeds can germinate in the autumn or spring. Autumn seedlings develop a rosette of leaves, which overwinters and resumes growing in spring.
How it causes problems
Each horseweed plant can produce up to 60,000 seeds, which are dispersed by the wind and germinate in the autumn. If left to self seed, it will quickly multiply and compete with ornamental and native wild plants for water and nutrients.
Horseweed and the law
Horseweed is not listed among those plants regulated under UK law, but it is noted by the RHS as having the potential to become a nuisance. Potentially invasive plants are usually plants that are either very vigorous or have the ability to spread easily.
How to control horseweed
Dig over the soil and remove any rosettes in the autumn. As the Erigeron canadensis life cycle is an annual one, the best method is to dig or pull it out before it has a chance to set seed.
Frequently asked questions
Should I pull horseweed?
Yes, pull or dig it out before it finishes flowering. This will prevent it from dispersing its seeds and creating new plants.
Is Erigeron canadensis good for anything?
It was used by Native American in animal bedding to prevent fleas – hence the name ‘fleabane’. Other uses of Erigeron canadensis have in the past included medicine and food. Native Americans have used it as a herbal medicine for illness such as dysentery, and to treat wounds. Horseweed has also been used in cooking – the leaves were used dried to add flavour to dishes such as soups and stews.
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/crape-myrtle/
Thu, 28 Nov 2024 11:10:40 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=213794
Crape myrtle (also known as crepe myrtle), which has the botanical name Lagerstroemia indica, is a large deciduous shrub or small tree that is native to parts of Asia, including China and the Himalayas. The name crape myrtle is likely to be due to the resemblance the crinkly flowers have to crepe paper. These are held in loose clusters in late summer on flowerheads that can be up to 20cm long, in shades including white, pink, red and purple. In autumn the leaves take on vibrant orange and red shades before falling, while winter interest comes from the tree’s peeling bark.
Crape myrtle used to be thought of as tender, but the RHS has trialled growing them outdoors at Wisley and concluded that in warm locations, such as the south east of England, crape myrtle can be grown outdoors in open locations, with many varieties hardy down to -5 or -10ºC. In colder areas, crape myrtles can be grown against a south-facing wall to protect them from the elements. To keep them thriving and flowering well, crape myrtles need to be planted in a place where they will get summer heat. In the right place, these shrubs are a low-maintenance plant as they are tolerant of drought. In parts of the UK where temperatures regularly drop below -5ºC, it’s best to grow crape myrtles in containers and overwinter them in a conservatory or greenhouse.
How to grow crape myrtle
Grow crape myrtle in a warm spot, where it will get lots of sun throughout the day to encourage good growth and flowering. It will thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in a sheltered location.
Where to grow crape myrtle
The best location for a crape myrtle is in full sun, in a west- or south-facing border. Avoid exposed or northerly sites.
How to plant crape myrtle
Choose a site with well-drained soil and dig a hole that is twice as wide as the plant’s rootball. It should be deep enough to fit the plant so that the top of the rootball sits level with the ground. Water the shrub well before planting. Carefully remove the plant from its pot and place in the hole. Backfill with soil and firm in well.
How to care for crape myrtle
Water newly planted shrubs and trees regularly, especially during summer. Crape myrtles are drought tolerant once established but will need time to put down roots. Feed crape myrtle regularly during the growing season, especially if it is growing in a container.
How to prune crape myrtle
Crape myrtles are in pruning group one, which means that they need little or no pruning. If lightly pruning to shape shrubs, the best time to do this is in late winter or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Pests and diseases
Crape myrtle is not prone to many pests and diseases. It may suffer from powdery mildew if the summer weather is particularly wet and this can affect the flower buds, and subsequent flower displays.
Advice on buying crape myrtle
- Crape myrtle can be grown as a shrub, but is also available to buy as a standard tree
- Crape myrtle is also sold under the name crepe myrtle
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before planting
Where to buy crape myrtle
Types of crape myrtle to grow
Lagerstroemia indica ‘Rhapsody’ is a hardy variety with showstopping pink flowers from June to September. Height x Spread: 4m x 3m
Lagerstroemia indica ‘Berry Dazzle’ is a rounded compact bush that is perfect for a pot, with bright pink flowers. H x S: 1.2m x 1m
Lagerstroemia indica ‘Nivea’ is a white-flowered variety that has a light scent. Its flowering display is long lasting, from June through to September. H x S: 3m x 2m
Frequently asked questions
How big does a crape myrtle grow?
The species, Lagerstroemia indica, can grow up to 8m tall over 20 years, but many of its cultivars are more compact, with multi-stemmed shrubs or small trees growing to three or four metres tall. There are also dwarf forms available, such as ‘Berry Dazzle’, which grows to 1.2m and ideal for a pot.
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/house-plants/spider-plant-care/
Wed, 27 Nov 2024 15:25:25 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=168552
This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
A spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is a good house plant for a beginner as it’s low maintenance and easy to grow. Native to South Africa, it has evergreen leaves that look good year round. Most are variegated with a white stripe down the centre of the narrow leaves like ‘Vittatum’, while others have completely green leaves. Spider plants are fast growing but compact, rarely reaching more than 50cm in height. Place them on a shelf or in hanging baskets to show off their trailing foliage.
The bonus of owning a spider plant is that it’s easy to grow more. A mature spider plant will produce stems with a baby spider plant at the tip. These tiny plants are also called ‘spiderettes’ and can be grown on to make new plants for free.
Spider plants are not toxic, so there is no need to worry about your pets or children.
Watch this Care Guide with house plant expert Jane Perrone to find out more about caring for spider plants.
Video ID: “ad1485785b1779a0eddc187c327ccd763d43ab5c”
Mix ID: “”
Player ID: “qAUyOzk5”
How to care for a spider plant
- Keep the compost moist throughout the growing season, from spring through summer, but reduce watering in winter. Don’t let the compost become soggy as this could lead to root rot.
- Remove any leaves with brown tips, or if that will leave the plant denuded, just the tips. This could be caused by a number of things including underwatering or overwatering. This is not a huge problem.
- Dust the leaves and mist your plant every so often, but it won’t mind too much if you forget.
- Feeding is not vital, but you can feed it once a month with liquid fertiliser during the growing season.
How to prune spider plants
Remove dead, brown or yellow leaves, cutting them off at the base. If there are too many spider plant babies and you don’t plan on replanting them all, remove some to save the parent plant energy. You can also cut off excess leaves if your plant is overgrown, but it’s best to repot if the plant is getting too big.
Where to grow a spider plant
Grow these easy plants in a bright spot out of direct sun as this can scorch their leaves. They can cope with a bit of cold, but don’t leave them anywhere where the temperature will drop below 8 degrees in the winter. The best room for a spider plant will depend on the light. They can tolerate some shade, such as in a hallway, but if the leaves start to look yellow, it may be because your plant isn’t getting enough light. Although spider plants can grow well without humidity, they will do best if they are placed in a humid spot, so try it in a bathroom or kitchen, away from any south facing windows.
How to plant a spider plant
Plant spider plants into a good, peat-free potting or house plant compost. Use a pot that is just a bit bigger than the root ball. Water well and pour away any excess water in the outer pot or saucer.
How to propagate spider plants
Spider plants will produce flowers in spring and these turn into spiderettes, or spider plant babies. These can be used to produce new plants. If your spider plant has not produced babies, this could be because the plant is not yet mature enough or it is not happy in its current location.
Spider plant babies
Long, vine like stems will emerge from the centre of your plant when it is mature and happy. Spider plant babies grow at the tip of these long stems.
To make new plants from spider plant babies, either snip off the spider plant baby or grow it on while it’s still attached. It’s also possible to place the spider plant baby in a jar of water to root, before planting into a pot of compost. This can be a fun project to do with children, so they can see the roots developing. To grow on a spider plant baby while it’s still attached to the parent plant, pin it down into a pot of compost, as you would do for a strawberry runner. Water well. Once the spider plant baby has rooted into its new pot, cut it off from the main plant’s stem.
Alternatively you can cut off the spider plant baby and plant it in its own pot. Cut the stem just above the spider plant baby. Choose a baby that has already has several roots. Pot it up into peat free house plant compost. Make sure the pot has drainage holes. Water well.
Pests and diseases
Spider plants do not tend to get too many pests and are generally disease free. Look out for scale insects – you’ll find them in the nooks between leaves and you may notice a sooty mould. Try removing the insects with your fingernail or use an organic soapy spray.
Advice on buying spider plants
- Spider plants are available with all green leaves or variegated, with green and white striped leaves. Among the variegate varieties, some have cream striped down the middle of the leaves, while others have green leaves edge in green.
- Other names that this plant may be sold under are Chlorophytum comosum. There are also some interesting cultivars, including ‘Ocean’, which has short, wide leaves, and ‘Bonnie’ which has curly leaves.
- Always check plants for signs of damage or disease before planting.
Where to buy spider plants
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/travel/top-eight-highlights-of-a-road-trip-in-nevada/
Wed, 27 Nov 2024 13:05:53 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=214166
When I had the chance to visit Nevada, I wasn’t sure what I’d find to satisfy the appetite of a garden and nature lover. Surely this state is all about harsh desert and the bright lights of Las Vegas. Well, yes and no. My trip started in Vegas, where I did indeed find bright lights and desert, but a four-day road trip north took me to breathtaking state parks with landscapes and scenery I never could have imagined. There are cultivated gardens on the outskirts of Las Vegas city too, which came as a complete surprise. So, think again if you think Nevada is all about gambling and cacti – you will find these things, but it offers so much more if you jump in a car and drive.
Ethel M Botanical Cactus Garden
I expected to see a lot of cacti in Nevada, so it was no surprise to find a whole garden dedicated to them. Just a 15-minute drive from the bright lights of the Las Vegas strip, the Ethel M Botanical Cactus Garden is free to enter and beautifully maintained. I spotted many plants, not just cacti, that were familiar to me plus others I’d never seen before that were obviously suited to the harsh weather Nevada has to offer. Everything’s meticulously labelled and, best of all, the garden belongs to an adjacent chocolate factory and shop – something for everyone!
Valley of Fire State Park
The otherworldly rock formations of the Valley of Fire State Park are a couple of hours north of Las Vegas, but it’s worth the drive. There’s very little plant life here, but the park is a must for anyone that loves the natural world and breathtaking scenery. Everything about this place is extreme, from the vibrant red colour of the rock to the intense heat once outside the comfort of an air-conditioned car – it was 43+ degrees. I visited in late September, and it was so hot that my phone stopped working outside. But there was something thrilling about being in such an exposed and, I guess, potentially dangerous place.
Cathedral Gorge State Park
Further north took me to Cathedral Gorge State Park. The temperature was about 10 degrees cooler here and nothing prepared me for the beauty of this place. It reminded me a little of the Grand Canyon, but it obviously wasn’t quite as big and nowhere near as busy. In fact, when I visited, I was the only person there and I’ll never forget the solace and silence I experienced here. There were far more signs of life too, with plants clinging to the rock and the odd tree surviving against the odds – a reminder of how resilient plants can be and a good reminder for us gardeners that they want to grow.
Kershaw Ryan State Park
The Kershaw Ryan State Park is a short drive from Cathedral Gorge and the perfect place to take a breather from the heat of Nevada. It’s more maintained than other parks I’d visited, with a blue pool for paddling and cooling hot feet, places to kick back and relax, spots to barbecue and picnic and areas of cultivated garden. It’s a great place to spend the day with family. Hiking trails take you into the surrounding landscape and I walked one of the shorter ones that gently climbed and gave me spectacular views of Nevada stretching into a never-ending horizon.
Great Basin National Park
Further north still took me to the Great Basin National Park. The temperature dipped a little here, and the landscape became much greener with bristlecone pine trees covering the mountains. At times the scenery reminded me of Scotland, which wasn’t something I expected from Nevada at all. It was autumn when I visited, and aspen trees were full of colour lighting up the landscape like fire – a totally unexpected spectacle that I’ll never forget. The area is known for its stargazing and, once I’d checked into my digs for the night, I sat outside and looked up as night fell. I’ve never seen so many shooting stars with the Milky Way also cutting the night sky in two – just magical.
Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park
I made a quick pit stop to the Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park, but it’s worth it if you like a bit of history. The charcoal ovens were built and used in the 1870s as part of the silver ore mining industry and it’s incredible they’re in such great condition today. You can walk right up to them, and go inside each one, which better helps you appreciate the scale and craft involved. The landscape the ovens sit in is beautiful and you have to drive a dirt track to reach them, which adds to the feeling of adventure and discovery.
Success Loop Scenic Drive
Still in the Great Basin National Park, I took the 40-mile Success Loop Scenic Drive. It’s not for the faint hearted with the dirt road climbing and winding through the mountains, but it is worth dedicating a couple of hours to the trip if you’re a confident driver. The landscape is beautiful and there were masses of aspen trees in full autumn colour which made everything even more beautiful. There was plenty of wildlife to see too and, if you’re feeling super adventurous, remote camping spots to fully immerse yourself in the high-desert landscape.
Springs Preserve
Before heading back to Las Vegas airport I called in at Springs Preserve on the outskirts of the city. This 180-acre attraction celebrates the history, culture and community of Las Vegas, with a focus on preserving the environment and natural resources. There’s a vast botanical garden which is free to enter and well worth a visit, with cacti, roses, herbs and veg gardens and more all on offer. It’s a great educational resource and it was fab to see plenty of places for children to learn and interact with the natural world.
More info
For more ideas and inspiration for a trip to Nevada, visit travelnevada.com
Where to stay:
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/win/hebridean-island-cruise-for-two-worth-9500/
Mon, 25 Nov 2024 17:16:17 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=214108
With stunning coastal gardens and plenty of botanical beauty, Scotland is a treasure trove of natural wonders – and luxury cruise provider Hebridean Island Cruises is offering one lucky competition winner the chance to experience its magic on its 4+ star Highlands in Bloom tour.
If you win, you and a guest will embark on a seven-night trip on board the Lord of the Highlands ship, which carries just 38 passengers and boasts a hand-picked crew who will take of your every need. Better still, you’ll get an all-inclusive stay in a deluxe cabin, and have the opportunity to attend two gala drinks, along with three special talks from guest speaker and RHS Vice President, Jim Gardiner.
And when you’re not soaking up the ship’s fabulous atmosphere, ashore, you’ll be able to explore the diverse collection of plants on display in a variety of West Coast and Highlands gardens, including the award-winning Inverewe Garden, as well as enjoy a scenic transit of the Caledonian Canal’s tranquil waters.
Please note, this cruise takes place between Monday 19 May and Monday 26 May 2025, so you will need to be free on those dates.
Prize details
One lucky winner will win a seven-night trip (for two people) on board the Lord of the Highlands ship.
The prize consists of a stay in a deluxe cabin with tickets to two gala dinners and three special talks on board the ship.
How to enter
To be in with a chance of winning this fantastic prize, simply answer the following question correctly by Friday 31 January 2025.
Please read our competition rules before you enter. Entrants must be UK residents, aged 18 or over.
Terms and Conditions
- The Promoter is Immediate Media Limited.
- The BBC Code of Conduct for competitions can be found at https://www.bbc.com/editorialguidelines/guidance/code-of-conduct and all BBC magazines comply with the Code.
- The promotion is open to all residents of the UK, including the Channel Islands, aged 18 years or older, except the Promoter’s employees or contractors and anyone connected with the promotion or their direct family members.
- The closing date for entries is 23:59 on 31 January 2025.
- By entering the promotion, the participants agree:
(a) to be bound by these terms and conditions;
(b) that their surname and county of residence may be released if they win a prize; and
(c) that should they win the promotion, their name and likeness may be used by the Promoter for pre-arranged promotional purposes. - Entrants should enter by answering the question outlined above. Entries received after the closing date of the promotion will not be considered.
- Entrants must supply to Immediate Media Company Limited their full name, email address and daytime telephone number. The Promoter will use entrants’ personal details in accordance with the Immediate Privacy Policy (www.immediatemedia.co.uk/privacy-policy).
- Only one entry will be permitted per person, regardless of method of entry. Bulk entries made by third parties will not be permitted.
- The winning entrant will be the first correct entry drawn at random from all the correct entries after the closing date. The Promoter’s decision as to the winner is final and no correspondence relating to the promotion will be entered into. The Promoter may share the details of the winner with the prize provider for the purposes of fulfilling/delivering the prize.
- The prize is for one (1) person to win a seven-night trip (for two people) on board the Lord of the Highlands ship. The prize consists of a stay in a deluxe cabin with tickets to two gala dinners and three special talks on board the ship.
- The competition entry is open to entrants aged 18 years or older but exclude employees of the Promoter or its holding or subsidiary company and BBC Gardeners World, their immediate families, anyone connected professionally with the prize draw, or any person where entering this competition breaches any law or regulation of the jurisdiction in which they are resident. In entering the competition, you confirm that you are eligible to do so and eligible to claim the prize.
- Only one entry per person will be available.
- The winner will be drawn at random on 31st January 2025.
- Not included in the prize is flights, travel insurance, any additional meals or accommodation not included in the itinerary, spending money or any travel visas required. The winner will need to make their own travel arrangements to the transfer point as follows: Coach transfers are provided from Inverness airport and Inverness City Centre to Kyle of Lochalsh at the start of the cruise and from the berth in Inverness to Inverness City Centre and Inverness airport at the end of the cruise. For guests wishing to drive, complimentary car parking is available at Inverness Airport with transfers included as per the above. All guests are required to confirm their joining arrangements in advance of travel on the pre cruise questionnaire which will be sent prior to the cruise commencing.
- Any unclaimed and/or unused portion of the Prize will be forfeited upon travel completion.
- The Prize is strictly non-transferable to another person, trip or redeemable for cash.
- The winner will be notified within 30 days of the close of the promotion by email. If the winner cannot be contacted, or fails to respond within 14 days of such notification being sent, the Promoter reserves the right to offer the prize to a runner up, or to re-offer the prize in any future promotion.
- There is no cash alternative and the prize will not be transferable. Prizes must be taken as stated and cannot be deferred. The Promoter reserves the right to substitute the prize with one of the same or greater value.
- The Promoter reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion at any stage, if deemed necessary in its opinion, or if circumstances arise outside of its control.
- The Promoter does not accept any responsibility for lost, delayed or fraudulent entries.
- The Promoter excludes liability to the full extent permitted by law for any loss, damage or injury occurring to the participant arising from his or her entry into the promotion or occurring to the winner arising from his or her acceptance of a prize.
- The promotion is subject to the laws of England.
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https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-prune-roses/
Fri, 22 Nov 2024 16:52:22 +0000
https://www.gardenersworld.com/?p=58161
This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.
Pruning roses is essential for their overall health, vitality and appearance. Winter is the key rose pruning time to cut back most varieties, except rambling roses, which are usually pruned in summer immediately after flowering.
How to prune roses
The basic principles of pruning roses are the same as pruning anything else: cutting back hard will promote the strongest growth, while light pruning will result in less vigorous regrowth.
- Remove dead, damaged or diseased wood, cutting to an outward-facing bud to encourage outward growth
- Remove closely positioned stems that might rub or compete for space
- Encourage fresh new growth from lower down by removing any main stems that are starting to lose their vigour
- Remove stubby ‘snags’ (short, dead lengths of stem with no growth on them) and thin, twiggy stems, which are unlikely to produce anything worthwhile in terms of growth and flowering potential
When to prune roses
The best time to prune most roses is from late winter to early spring, just around the time new growth starts. In the south of the UK, spring growth may start as early as January, while further north you may not see any new leaves until April. Rambling roses can be pruned in summer, as soon as they have finished flowering, however sometimes it’s easier to wait until autumn or winter, so you can see what you’re doing more clearly, once the leaves have dropped and the new, long stems have ripened in the sun, making them less liable to snapping.
Where to buy roses
Follow our advice on pruning roses, below.
Modern shrub and English roses
Modern shrub roses are a broad group, but all are robust, repeat-flowering and come in a wide range of colours. English roses have been bred to include the qualities of modern shrub roses, with the beautiful fragrance of old roses. Varieties of modern shrub rose include ‘Meidomonac’ (Bonica), ‘Little White Pet’ and ‘Cerise Bouquet’. There are lots of popular English rose varieties, such as ‘Munstead Wood’, ‘Boscobel’ and ‘Gertrude Jekyll’.
Unlike bush roses, the more you cut back modern shrub and English roses, the more leafy growth they’ll produce at the expense of blooms. They need an established framework of branching stems on which to bear their flowering shoots in summer. Prune from January to March. Follow our step-by-step advice on how to prune modern shrub roses.
Bush roses
Bush roses include cluster-flowered floribundas and large-flowered hybrid teas, and have been bred for their ability to flower freely on strong new growth made during the current growing season. This means they can be cut down hard every year to keep plants compact, as long as they are well mulched and fed every year. Prune from January to March. Well-known varieties of bush rose include ‘Iceberg’ (floribunda) and ‘Elizabeth Harkness’ (hybrid tea).
Patio roses are shorter-growing forms of bush roses. Meanwhile, miniature roses simply need to be encouraged to produce thicker stems that will be topped with blooms, while any thin, unproductive twigs should be removed completely. Follow our step-by-step advice on how to prune bush roses.
Rambling and species roses
Rambling roses are vigorous, scrambling plants that can be used to cover walls, pergolas and even climb through trees. They usually flower once a year, in June, producing a magnificent display of blooms. Rambling roses to grow include ‘Wedding Day’, ‘Veilchenblau’ and ‘Kew Rambler’. Species roses, like ramblers, are robust and vigorous. As they have simple, open flowers, they’re great for pollinating insects. There are lots of species roses to grow, including Rosa complicata, Rosa moyesii and Rosa glauca.
Rambling and species roses as well as ground cover varieties (some of which share parentage with ramblers and climbers) flower most freely on younger stems from the past year or two. This means that the very oldest flowered stems are cut out at the base each year to encourage new shoots to form from the base and to stop the plant from turning into a tangle of unproductive stems. Also remove any scrappy shoots. Find out how to prune a rambling rose and how to prune a species rose.
Prune from August to September.
Climbing roses
Climbing roses are vigorous selections from the same breeding as bush roses. Roses from other groups can be climbing roses, hence you’ll come across English climbing roses, climbing hybrid tea roses and more. Climbing roses to grow include ‘Teasing Georgia’, ‘A Shropshire Lad’ and ‘Claire Austin’.
In winter, once a main framework of stems has been trained across their support, the sideshoots of climbing roses can be cut back close to the main framework to encourage flowering. Follow our step-by-step advice to pruning a climbing rose.
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